Generally speaking when you come to the end of a wall and you want the subway tile installation to look like it wraps onto the next wall.
Subway tile inside corner installation.
Depending on your tile choice a fairly inexpensive tile cutter and nipper combination will be enough to handle most of the straight cuts.
In diameter you will likely need to make u shape notch and corner cuts for outlets and cabinet edges.
Next spread tile adhesive on the back of the tiles and install them into position.
Push the blade along the line to score the tile one pass should be sufficient.
At the inside corner if cuts are necessary make them on your tile cutter.
But if you have tile that is larger than 1 in.
If you have to install strips of tile along the inside corner you should measure the distance from the last tile in the row to the corner making sure you take into account the expansion gap.
A mitre cut only means that the cut is done at a 45 degree angle so that both ends connect together to fit a 90 degree angle.
Affix all your full files putting tile spacers between them as you go.
Hang the tiles in the backsplash corners press your tiles into place starting at the bottom outside edge of the section.
Measure halfway down your tile and mark with a pencil.
Work with great care as you might move the plastic trim from position.
A 3 sided shower for example.
Set the tiles in thinset mortar spread with a notched trowel putting spacers between them.
Line up your halfway mark with the middle of a manual tile snapper shiny side up.
Beveled subway tile needs mitre cuts in corners in corners mitre cuts are an absolute necessity when using beveled edge tiles or really any subways tile that has rounded edges.
You would typically center the back wall so the cuts are even on both sides.
Hang all the full tiles over both walls leading to the corner starting each wall at the middle of the bottom and building up and out course by course.
Stop each course when a full tile won t fit in the corner by the adjacent wall.